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Use fiberglass & resin with “dry approach”
Writer:admin    Released:2017-05-27 11:17:18    Type:【L】【M】【S

The primary coat of resin with the "dry technique" is referred to as the bond coat, and best enough resin because it takes to wet out the material and bond it to the hull is needed. All regions have to grow to be transparent and free of entrapped air. Do not try to fill the weave of the fabric with this coat, or follow a thick, heavy layer, but do try and make the coat even with out excessive and coffee areas (which will appear as stupid and smooth spots), and unfastened from sags and runs. Paintings the resin so long as feasible with the roller to make this coat even. A properly carried out sheathing at this point could have a matte finish with the weave seen. Do not permit any dry (white) spots and make sure to eliminate all entrapped air that builds up below the material as you go, prior to the resin starting to gel. (observe: excess resin underneath the cloth may additionally appear like a bubble. This can be eliminated by repeated rolling to force out extra resin.) lf there is too much resin at the surface, eliminate the excess with a squeegee or comparable device and discard it. Trim extra fabric earlier than the resin units up difficult, but now not before the resin sets up a piece considering the fact that you will drag and pass the cloth otherwise. Make certain your mat knife is sharp and reduce toward the surface. In case you pull the material faraway from the surface at this factor, it's going to now not re-adhere and it is able to be necessary to patch this region.

 

Joints inside the fabric itself need no longer be lapped; they may be butted. However, at planking junctions which includes alongside the keel, chine, transom corners, and similar situations, the fabric have to be double lapped through numerous inches. After the resin units up, such joints are preferably "feathered", with the first (underlying) layer of fabric tapered through sanding along the brink in order that a ridge of extra cloth is not obvious.

 

After the bond coat is carried out, again use activated resin for the second one coat; that is called the fill coat and is used to fill and hide the weave of the material. This coat is preferably applied with a curler. Other utility tools will make an even coating extra tough to apply. There's no surface education vital between coats, but, any runs, sags, or different uneven regions are preferably corrected (generally via sanding) earlier than making use of subsequent coats. Just take care now not to sand through the cloth; if this occurs, such areas ought to be patched. Extra coats of resin can be applied after this, as required, to easy out the floor and conceal the weave of the cloth, constructing up enough coating thickness for a sanding and finishing base. In most instances, 3 or 4 coats total should suffice. To enhance the "feathering" of the second layer of cloth, you may want to apply resin/microspheres filler to "truthful" out any remaining ridges. After a very last sanding the hull can be finished.

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